Wine & Cheese Pairing June 2025
Fiscalini Farmstead Balsamic Onion Cheddar
+ Terratorium Cabernet Franc
Our cheese this month is Balsamic Onion Cheddar, made by Fiscalini Farmstead. After four generations, the Fiscalini Farmstead is steeped in a rich history of agriculture and cheesemaking. In 1886, Mateo Fiscalini emigrated from Switzerland to the United States through Ellis Island. Mateo made his way across the country working on the railroad. He ended up in Cambria, California, joining family who had already settled there. Mateo joined them on the Chorro Dairy and raised his family there. Mateo worked hard to send his son John Baptiste to Cal Poly San Luis Obispo, and John Baptiste put his degree in irrigation to use in 1912 when he learned of the Don Pedro Dam being built in Northern California. He purchased 160 acres in Modesto, knowing there would be open land ready to irrigate and farm.
Only two years later, John Baptiste Fiscalini started a dairy farm with 10 milking cows. In 1930, in a devastating turn of events, a tuberculosis outbreak forced him to slaughter his herd and keep the land free of animals for two years. John Baptiste’s desire to raise a new herd led him to Wisconsin, where he purchased 30 Holsteins. Due to his deep care for and attentiveness to the well-being of his new herd, John Baptiste rode all the way back to California in the boxcar with the animals, caring for them, feeding, and milking them along the cross-country journey.
In 1938, John Baptiste passed away, leaving the farm to his wife and son Matthew. While growing the dairy operation and expanding their land, Matthew married and had three children with Marie Weisner. Their son John Fiscalini graduated from Oregon State in 1974 with a degree in microbiology. He returned home and helped manage the farming operations. By this time, the dairy had grown to 540 acres and included wine grapes and walnut trees.
By 1995, the Fiscalini Farm housed 2800 animals. They converted all the farm land into a rotation of different forages for the animals to consume. In an attempt to get in touch with his roots, John Fiscalini traveled to Switzerland. While in Switzerland, he learned his ancestors made a living making cheese as far back as the 1700s. John discovered the time-honored art and family tradition of cheesemaking; he decided to bring handcrafted, farmstead cheese to California. In 2000, they began processing cheese with the milk produced by the herd. Clever and resourceful, John constructed numerous parts of the cheesemaking equipment he needed from scratch, going as far as reconditioning a stainless steel vat rescued from a scrap pile. John built his cheese plant just steps away from the dairy, ensuring the freshest milk. All Fiscalini Farmstead cheese is made using their own milk, guaranteeing exceptional quality.
Though Fascalini Farmstead uses traditional cheesemaking methods, they are firmly focused on the future. Their desire to become completely sustainable led them to build a methane digester, which allows them to convert traditional waste products into renewable resources. The digester produces enough electricity to power their facility, along with 300 neighboring homes! Their investment in green technology is a natural extension of their devotion to the community and future generations. The Fascalinis strive to respect and honor the animals, land, and resources, believing healthy land fosters happy cows, and happy cows make the best milk.
The traditional method of making cheese by hand requires a lot of time and a great deal of skill. John’s children, Laura Genasci (who graduated from Cal Poly San Luis Obispo, just like her great-grandfather a hundred years before) and Brian Fiscalini, oversee the day-to-day operations along with their father. Mariano Gonzalez is their head cheesemaker. He comes from Paraguay, where he learned to make cheese from his uncle. When he came to the United States, he took a summer job at Shelburne Farms in Vermont (we love their two-year cheddar!) Very shortly after John opened the cheese plant, Mariano offered his cheesemaking knowledge, and within a few years, he became the company’s head cheesemaker. Over the years, Mariano has won the farmstead numerous awards and gained national recognition for their cheeses.
Similar to a winemaker, Mariano is involved in the entire cheesemaking process. He oversees the whole process and closely monitors aging to ensure temperatures and conditions remain perfectly balanced. Made mostly by hand, it takes thousands of gallons of milk to produce each batch of their handcrafted cheese. Fascalini Farmstead’s love and attention to the art of cheese making is evident in all their products. Each bite you take is the final form of an intense, painstaking endeavor of passion. Their Balsamic Onion Cheddar is made in the traditional English style and infused with balsamic vinegar and toasted minced onion. This semi-hard cheese is bold and complex, with rich and savory notes and a versatility that makes it great for cheeseboards or melted on a burger.
When pairing the Balsamic Onion Cheddar, we wanted something that would stand up to the bold flavors and complement its richness. We didn’t have to look very far. We chose a Cabernet Franc made from grapes grown just a couple of hours north of Fascalini Farmstead in the Alexander Valley AVA in Sonoma County, California. Terratorium Cabernet Franc is a perfect pairing for the Fascalini Farmstead’s Balsamic Onion Cheddar. Medium-bodied, the 2023 vintage bursts with flavors of black cherry and black plum, followed by notes of sweet tobacco and roasted pepper. It’s balanced with medium tannins and acidity, creating structure and keeping it versatile, and its bright ruby color will make an immediate impression.
This vintage comes from Nervo Ranch Vineyard, located in the foothills of the Mayacamas Mountains. Nervo Ranch Vineyard features some of the oldest Cabernet Franc plantings, dating back to 1896! The steep slopes and decomposed shale terroir contribute to the unique character of the grapes grown here. The rugged terrain of the foothills allows for optimal water drainage, which promotes deep root systems. Deep roots enhance the expression of dark red fruit and herbaceous flavors. The specific microclimate found here also emphasizes the earthy complexity of the Cabernet Franc varietal. Hand-harvested, the 2023 vintage showcases the rainy, cool season, which resulted in a slower ripening fruit with exceptional balance and concentration.
Though relatively new to the wine scene, Terratorium is making waves with exceptional and accessible wines. Their dedication to creating unique wines through thoughtful viticulture and winemaking processes is represented right in the name. Terratorium is a take on the French term terroir. Terroir refers to how all aspects of a vineyard come together to impact the flavor of the grapes. The name Terratorium represents the belief that great wine is made in the vineyard. They are focused on creating wines that showcase the uniqueness of each vineyard they source from. When talking about terroir, there are so many minuscule differences that can affect the grapes, from the way water drains, to the makeup of the soil, and the amount of sun or shade a vine receives. These microclimates can change not only from vineyard to vineyard but from plot to plot. These differences can greatly impact the wines made from these grapes, and Terratorium wines focus on expressing those distinct growing environments.
Founder Ben Matthews found a focus for his lifelong love of nature while in the winemaking regions of Germany. While visiting the area's many small towns, he saw how diverse one grape can be in the various expressions of Riesling there. He saw how the differences in terroir and techniques could have big impacts on the resulting wines. He took this focus home with him and planted a mini hobby vineyard. He began studying winemaking at UC Davis and under the mentorship of Jim Duane at Seavey Vineyard. Jim shares Ben’s passion for nature and family, and they found the partnership to be a natural fit right from the beginning. Their main goal is to craft wine that is clearly connected to nature.
Along with Jim, Ben worked with other mentors throughout his winemaking journey. He saw the ways wine can bring people together. Wine has inspired him to travel to new places, learn new things, and meet new people. Ben founded Terratorium to create the wines that bring people together and enrich lives. We find gathering with friends over a bottle of wine and a plate of cheese to be the encapsulation of this vision.
Sources:
https://fiscalinifarmstead.com/
